Grey clouds gather above Sihanoukville harbour. We’re told it will be a rocky ride by our captain as we board a wooden boat that has seen better days. As the harbour disappears behind us, beers are passed round and the soundtrack from Titanic blares from the on-board speaker. “It’s the captain’s favourite” one of the crew tells us between bouts of laughter, as we lurch violently from side to side. That was the start of the most hilarious and terrifying boat ride we’ve ever experienced.

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